There are those places in the city that you don't have to think about. Café Luxembourg on the Spui is one of those. It has been there since the early 1980s, between bookshop Athenaeum and the historic café Hoppe (opened in 1670), and it has stood the test of time without losing a millimeter of its character. The New York Times proclaimed it ‘one of the world's great cafés,’ Le Figaro called it ‘un grand café brun par excellence’ and The Independent described it as ‘spacious, elegant and unhurried. Not bad for a café on the Spui.
The most famous dish on the menu is the Shrimp Croquet, created by Patisserie Holtkamp, and Café Luxembourg co-invented it. That's no small claim. Holtkamp also supplies the Bitterbal, considered by many to be the best in town. Two classics it doesn't get any more classic than this. At the table, you are sitting with a product that is unparalleled, and you get that realization from the very first bite.
The space helps, too. On the Spui side is the veranda, a conservatory with so many windows that Amsterdammers have come to call it simply ‘the veranda of a thousand windows. Ideal for those who like to look outside as the city passes by you. In the back is a long wooden bar, with large windows and stained glass overlooking the Singel. Light streams in, it's quieter, and it feels at once romantic and weekday. Suitable for large groups, small celebrations and just a weekday Tuesday.
Anyone who thinks grand cafes have had their best days should sit down here on a weekday afternoon.
Café Luxembourg is within walking distance of Kalverstraat and Leidsestraat, but feels like a world apart. Reachable by streetcar via Rokin or Koningsplein, or by metro via the North-South line. Anyone who thinks that grand cafés have had their day should sit down here on a weekday afternoon, with the veranda full of daylight and a glass of Lucas Bols gin in front of them. Then you will understand why this address has endured for forty years.