Primo Passo, which means ‘first step. And for those unfamiliar with Neapolitan deli culture, this is indeed a good place to start. The store on Mauritskade, near Oost, is small and focused on takeout. No big restaurant concept, just good sandwiches and lasagna to take home. You can tell from the name Moshik Roth, the two-star chef linked to the business, that someone with serious background is involved.
The menu has more than 10 cold and six hot panini varieties, each named after Neapolitan concepts, places or figures. The Maradona is a hot sandwich with meatballs al forno, provola smoked mozzarella and eggplant parmigiana. The Vesuvio goes for Neapolitan sausage, provola and friarielli. And the Cuzzetiello II, a traditional Neapolitan sandwich rarely seen outside Naples, is full of Genovese ragù and black-skinned pecorino cheese. These are not standard lunch sandwiches.
The cold varieties are nothing to complain about, either. The O'chiattillo combines prosciutto crudo San Daniele (aged 18 months) with buffalo mozzarella and marinated eggplant. The O'mast goes for seasoned capocollo from the Sannio area with buffalo tracciata. And then there's the Toledo, with mortadella with pistachio, burrata and chopped pistachios, one of the more accessible options on the menu. The Napoli Sotterranea is a cold sandwich with pancetta and Provolone del Monaco, a cheese you really won't find in the average supermarket.
The Cuzzetiello is a traditional Neapolitan sandwich rarely seen outside of Naples, filled with Genovese ragù and black-skinned pecorino cheese.
What sets Primo Passo apart from any sandwich store is its attention to provenance. The products come mostly from Campania and the surrounding area: buffalo products, San Daniele prosciutto, Provolone del Monaco and capocollo from the Sannio area. No wholesale ingredients, but regional meats and cheeses with a D.O.P. seal of approval or controlled origin. You can taste that. The menu is uncluttered, the approach is clear and the kitchen knows what they're doing. For Oost, this is a welcome addition.