Right next to the Westertoren, in a building that has centuries in its walls, sits ’t Westerhuys. No chef-table concepts or seasonal menus that change every month, just plain stew that's always on the menu. Fred van Mierlo cooks here what he cooks: Dutch cuisine, including the colonial influences that are part of this city's culinary history. That immediately makes it a lot more interesting than the average eating place in the neighborhood.
Van Mierlo is both owner and head chef. He chooses local products: organic eggs, Beemster cheese, Amsterdam pickles, free-range chicken. You notice that on the plate. The fried eggs consist of three organic ones with aged Beemster and country ham, with a fresh salad and those pickles on the side. Simple on paper, but the difference is in the choice of good staples. No shortcuts, no plastic cheese from a tub.
The building on Prinsengracht breathes Jordaan. Wooden floors, heavy beams, windows overlooking the canal. The atmosphere is low-key: you slide in, you order, and no one stands over your shoulder. No starched tablecloths and no waiter asking if you would also like to peruse the sommelier's menu. Just a table, good food, and taking your time.
The rendang tells the entire commercial history of the city in a few bites, slow-cooked beef in a spicy coconut sauce.
The Jordaan these days has many restaurants that cater to tourists who want a quick photo of their food. ’t Westerhuys doesn't. It sits on one of the city's most beautiful streets, next to the Westerkerk and the Anne Frank House, but the kitchen looks in rather than out. Ox sausage, rendang and organic eggs: Van Mierlo's menu reads like a brief overview of what Amsterdam has always eaten. That's just enough.