Walk-in or nothing. The Singing Swan on Eerste Helmerstraat in the Helmers neighborhood doesn't take reservations, and that's exactly the point. You stand at the door, the door opens, and if there's room, you're seated. It's that simple. Owner Roland Peijnenburg took the concept from founder Ad Peijnenborg and keeps it going: a bistro that runs on its own terms.
The kitchen is in the hands of Chef Elian Muller, who works with what the season offers. You can see that in dishes like Kale Beurre Blanc with Leek and Potato Straw, or Cepes with Old Amsterdam, Mesclun and Walnuts. Solid flavors, but neatly executed. Not too heavy, not too light. The Mushrooms with Parmesan, Sage, 63 Egg and Pecans are one of those dishes where you understand why people come back here. And the Gochujang with Sweet and Sour Cucumber and Coleslaw shows that the cuisine looks beyond European borders, too.
The interior has something British about it, but without the kitsch that might come with it. Warm, cozy, a little dark in the right way. The building on Eerste Helmerstraat lends itself well to this. Between 3:30 and 5 p.m. you can only order something from the snack menu, which makes the place feel more like a drinks bar in those early days. Only then does the kitchen switch to the full menu.
The Singing Swan closes when it is no longer cozy, and that sounds vague but works just fine in practice.
The Singing Swan is open Tuesday through Sunday. Closing time is not fixed anywhere, because the business closes when it is no longer cozy. That sounds vague, but works just fine in practice. The Helmersbuurt gains a bistro that does not try to be something it is not. Just good food, a good bottle of wine, and the freedom to stay longer than planned. Come early if you want to be sure to be seated, because there's no reserving a table.