Felix Meritis has been there since 1788, designed by architect Jacob Otten Husly for a society of scientists, artists and entrepreneurs in the Age of Enlightenment. The building on Keizersgracht still breathes that history. And somewhere on the first floor, behind the heavy neoclassical facade, sits Felix Café: the place where that past is given a contemporary interpretation.
Chef Sander Louwerens runs the kitchen with a menu that is small, but doesn't think small. The offerings are seasonal and draw their inspiration from all over the world. Korean tartare with kimchi pickled egg yolk stands next to a vegan Jerusalem artichoke with shallot, chives and lime. These are not decorative additions, they are dishes that stand. The bruschetta with pickled vegetables is simpler, but fits the same picture: fermentation, acidity, balance.
The space itself is how you would like to imagine a cultural café, but rarely find one. Felix Meritis functions as a multidisciplinary cultural center, with theater, debates and concerts on the premises. The café is the first floor of all that, literally and figuratively. From four in the afternoon, you can walk in for a drink and some small bites. From 5:30, the kitchen opens for a full dinner. Reservations can be made, but drop in as well, though spots are limited.
Korean tartare with kimchi pickled egg yolk stands next to a vegan Jerusalem artichoke with shallot, chives and lime: these are dishes that stand.
Open Wednesday through Saturday, evenings. Nothing more. That conscious decision leaves a mark: this is not a walk-through restaurant. It's a place that sets its own pace, in a neighborhood that can have that too. The Jordaan is around the corner, as are the Nine Streets. Felix Meritis is right on the border where tourists walk but the neighborhood is still itself. The café fits in well with that: accessible to everyone, but not set up for everyone.